A first of its kind on
Kloochman Rock, this pure sport route climbs up the 700 foot north arÍte of Tower
1. The climbing is steep and exposed with generally solid rock.
It is in the shade for most of the day, making a great summer time climb.
Climbers are rewarded with excellent views of the South Face of the Goose Egg and
For gear take 12 quick
draws and two 50 or 60 meter ropes.
for Destruction takes the sun/shade line up Tower 1.
How to get there
Follow Highway 12 west from Yakima. Turn left (south) on the lower
Tieton Road, between milepost 168 and 167. After 1.8 miles turn left on
the Milk Creek Road. In less than 0.2 mile, take the first right on
FS Road #571. Drive 0.4 mile (stay right) until the road makes a sharp bend
right and Tower 1 is visible up a prominent drainage. Park off the
road. Head up the right side of the drainage directly to the base of
Kloochman rock. 20 minutes.
The climbs starts from the lowest point of Kloochman Rock at the northern
base of Tower 1.
A short pitch past 6 bolts leads to an exposed belay on the crest.
Follow bolts up and right with a few tricky moves. Run-out but easier
climbing past one hard-to-find bolt leads to a small ledge and anchor below
Climb up to and through the well-protected roof then up the nice face above.
Move the belay up to the base of a large detached block with bolts on its
right side. Climb the well protected face and arÍte to a good ledge
Climb over a small roof, then up tricky face to a huge ledge with a three
Scramble up left, then around a pillar to the right, to the final monolithic
summit block. Climb up to the top on the west side of the block.
Descent off the 20 foot block requires reversing the same moves.
the route with 2 ropes. Or down-climb the standard route by traversing
a ledge around to the south from the top of pitch 5 to the notch between
Tower 1 and Tower 2. Go through the notch (tricky downclimbing) then
circle around the west side of the peak and back to the north side.
Joe Puryear and Stoney Richards, October 12, 2002.
Appetite For Destruction